Van Cleef & Arpels, the Invisible or Mystery Setting

Van Cleef & Arpels is a leading French jewellery firm founded in 1906 by Julien, Louis, and Charles Arpels and their brother-in-law Alfred van Cleef, all descendants of jewellers and diamond dealers. Its main shop is at 22 Place Vendôme, Paris, and it has branches in London, New York City, and fashionable resorts, catering to a clientele seeking jewellery of original design and high quality.

On 2 December 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels received the French Patent for a proprietary gem setting style called Serti Mysterieux, or "Mystery Setting." The Mystery Setting is a technique employing a setting where the prongs are invisible. Each stone is faceted onto gold rails less than two-tenths of a millimetre thick. The technique can require 300 hours of work per piece or more, and only a few are produced each year.

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