Antique diamond floral trembleuse brooch in gold and silver, circa 1840
A flower that responds to your every movement: this diamond brooch, dating from circa 1840, brings the Romantic fascination with nature to life. Its largest bloom trembles gently above curving stems and pointed leaves, catching the light across an old mine cut diamond and a hundred rose-cut companions. Two substantial pear-shaped diamonds lend further distinction to this graceful branch, where botanical form becomes a small, sparkling performance.
Jewellery type: Diamond floral spray brooch with a trembleuse flower head.
Condition: Very good condition with wear consistent with age.
The brooch fitting is a later addition, and the brooch has subsequently been rhodium-plated throughout.
Country of origin: unknown
Style:
Romanticism,
expressed through a naturalistic floral spray with curving stems, pointed leaves and a prominent open bloom.
The asymmetrical composition and softly articulated flower capture the period's delight in nature.
Period: circa 1840.
Source of inspiration: Nature.
Theme: A flowering branch with leaves and buds.
Material: 18K red gold-backed silver, touchstone tested.
The later rhodium coating gives the entire brooch a white appearance and conceals the original colour contrast between the silver front and red gold back.
Technique: En tremblant construction: the large flower is mounted to quiver gently with the wearer's movements,
animating the diamond-set bloom independently of the surrounding spray.
Diamonds: One central old mine cut diamond with an estimated weight of 0.50 carats, H–J colour and I clarity.
A further 100 rose-cut diamonds, including two substantial pear-shaped examples.
The diamond weight, its colour and clarity are approximate, as the stone was assessed in its setting and was not removed for grading or weighing.
Total diamond weight: Approximately 0.50 carats, excluding the 100 rose-cut diamonds.
Rose-cut diamonds are traditionally described by number rather than by estimated weight, colour or clarity.
Their irregular proportions, often compounded by closed settings, make reliable weight estimation and standard grading impracticable while mounted.
We individually screened every diamond in this brooch using the EXA Natural Diamond Detector developed by Magilabs;
each test returned a natural-diamond result.
Traditional gemstone associations: Diamonds are traditionally associated with April and symbolise enduring love.
Hallmarks: No trace of hallmarks was found.
Dimensions: 69.7 × 42.3 mm (2.74 × 1.67 in).
See photograph with a millimetre scale.
Weight: 17.9 g
Adin Reference Nº: 26260-00077
Photography © Adin Fine Antique & Vintage Jewellery.
